Wehavebrieflypointedoutthegreaterpartofthebeautieswhichitpossessedinthefifteenthcentury,andwhichitlacksto–day;butwehaveomittedtheprincipalthing,—theviewofPariswhichwasthentobeobtainedfromthesummitsofitstowers.
Thatwas,infact,—when,afterhavinglonggropedone'swayupthedarkspiralwhichperpendicularlypiercesthethickwallofthebelfries,oneemerged,atlastabruptly,upononeoftheloftyplatformsinundatedwithlightandair,—thatwas,infact,afinepicturewhichspreadout,onallsidesatonce,beforetheeye;aspectacle~suigeneris~,ofwhichthoseofourreaderswhohavehadthegoodfortunetoseeaGothiccityentire,complete,homogeneous,—afewofwhichstillremain,NuremberginBavariaandVittoriainSpain,—canreadilyformanidea;orevensmallerspecimens,providedthattheyarewellpreserved,—VitréinBrittany,NordhauseninPrussia.
WeParisiansgenerallymakeamistakeastothegroundwhichwethinkthatwehavegained,sinceParishasnotincreasedmuchoverone–thirdsincethetimeofLouisXI.
Parisremainedformanycenturiesinitsislandstate,withtwobridges,oneonthenorth,theotheronthesouth;andtwobridgeheads,whichwereatthesametimeitsgatesanditsfortresses,—theGrand–Châteletontherightbank,thePetit–Châteletontheleft.
Then,fromthedateofthekingsofthefirstrace,Paris,beingtoocribbedandconfinedinitsisland,andunabletoreturnthither,crossedthewater.
Then,beyondtheGrand,beyondthePetit–Châtelet,afirstcircleofwallsandtowersbegantoinfringeuponthecountryonthetwosidesoftheSeine.
Somevestigesofthisancientenclosurestillremainedinthelastcentury;to–day,onlythememoryofitisleft,andhereandthereatradition,theBaudetsorBaudoyergate,"PorteBagauda".
Littlebylittle,thetideofhouses,alwaysthrustfromtheheartofthecityoutwards,overflows,devours,wearsaway,andeffacesthiswall.
Fortheperiodofmorethanacentury,thehousespressuponeachother,accumulate,andraisetheirlevelinthisbasin,likewaterinareservoir.
Theybegintodeepen;theypilestoryuponstory;theymountuponeachother;theygushforthatthetop,likealllaterallycompressedgrowth,andthereisarivalryastowhichshallthrustitsheadaboveitsneighbors,forthesakeofgettingalittleair.
ThehousesfinallyleapthewallofPhilipAugustus,andscatterjoyfullyovertheplain,withoutorder,andallaskew,likerunaways.
Beginningwith1367,thecityspreadstosuchanextentintothesuburbs,thatanewwallbecomesnecessary,particularlyontherightbank;CharlesV.buildsit.
Theyarefunnels,intowhichallthegeographical,political,moral,andintellectualwater–shedsofacountry,allthenaturalslopesofapeople,pour;wellsofcivilization,sotospeak,andalsosewers,wherecommerce,industry,intelligence,population,—allthatissap,allthatislife,allthatisthesoulofanation,filtersandamassesunceasingly,dropbydrop,centurybycentury.
Inthesixteenth,itseemstoretreatvisibly,andtoburyitselfdeeperanddeeperintheoldcity,sothickhadthenewcityalreadybecomeoutsideofit.
Thus,beginningwiththefifteenthcentury,whereourstoryfindsus,Parishadalreadyoutgrownthethreeconcentriccirclesofwallswhich,fromthetimeofJuliantheApostate,existed,sotospeak,ingermintheGrand–ChâteletandthePetit–Châtelet.
Themightycityhadcracked,insuccession,itsfourenclosuresofwalls,likeachildgrowntoolargeforhisgarmentsoflastyear.
UnderLouisXI.,thisseaofhouseswasseentobepiercedatintervalsbyseveralgroupsofruinedtowers,fromtheancientwall,likethesummitsofhillsinaninundation,—likearchipelagosoftheoldParissubmergedbeneaththenew.
SincethattimeParishasundergoneyetanothertransformation,unfortunatelyforoureyes;butithaspassedonlyonemorewall,thatofLouisXV.,thatmiserablewallofmudandspittle,worthyofthekingwhobuiltit,worthyofthepoetwhosungit,—
Inthefifteenthcentury,Pariswasstilldividedintothreewhollydistinctandseparatetowns,eachhavingitsownphysiognomy,itsownspecialty,itsmanners,customs,privileges,andhistory:theCity,theUniversity,theTown.
TheCity,whichoccupiedtheisland,wasthemostancient,thesmallest,andthemotheroftheothertwo,crowdedinbetweenthemlike(maywebepardonedthecomparison)alittleoldwomanbetweentwolargeandhandsomemaidens.
TheUniversitycoveredtheleftbankoftheSeine,fromtheTournelletotheTourdeNesle,pointswhichcorrespondintheParisofto–day,theonetothewinemarket,theothertothemint.
Itsquay,brokenorinterruptedinmanyplaces,ranalongtheSeine,fromtheTourdeBillytotheTourduBois;thatistosay,fromtheplacewherethegranarystandsto–day,tothepresentsiteoftheTuileries.
Thesefourpoints,wheretheSeineintersectedthewallofthecapital,theTournelleandtheTourdeNesleontheright,theTourdeBillyandtheTourduBoisontheleft,werecalledpre–eminently,"thefourtowersofParis."
TheculminatingpointoftheTownwall(thatofCharlesV.)wasatthegatesofSaint–DenisandSaint–Martin,whosesituationhasnotbeenchanged.
Aswehavejustsaid,eachofthesethreegreatdivisionsofPariswasatown,buttoospecialatowntobecomplete,acitywhichcouldnotgetalongwithouttheothertwo.
Hencethreeentirelydistinctaspects:churchesaboundedintheCity;palaces,intheTown;andcolleges,intheUniversity.
Neglectingheretheoriginalities,ofsecondaryimportanceinoldParis,andthecapriciousregulationsregardingthepublichighways,wewillsay,fromageneralpointofview,takingonlymassesandthewholegroup,inthischaosofcommunaljurisdictions,thattheislandbelongedtothebishop,therightbanktotheprovostofthemerchants,theleftbanktotheRector;overallruledtheprovostofParis,aroyalnotamunicipalofficial.
Offencescommittedbythescholarsontheleftbankweretriedinthelawcourtsontheisland,andwerepunishedontherightbankatMontfauon;unlesstherector,feelingtheuniversitytobestrongandthekingweak,intervened;foritwasthestudents'privilegetobehangedontheirowngrounds.
Thegreaterpartoftheseprivileges,itmaybenotedinpassing,andthereweresomeevenbetterthantheabove,hadbeenextortedfromthekingsbyrevoltsandmutinies.
Thereisanoldcharterwhichputsthematternaively:aproposoffidelity:~Civibusfidelitasinreges,quoetamenaliquotiesseditionibusinterrypta,multapeperitprivileyia~.
Inthefifteenthcentury,theSeinebathedfiveislandswithinthewallsofParis:Louviersisland,wheretherewerethentrees,andwherethereisnolongeranythingbutwood;l'ileauxVaches,andl'ileNotre–Dame,bothdeserted,withtheexceptionofonehouse,bothfiefsofthebishop—intheseventeenthcentury,asingleislandwasformedoutofthesetwo,whichwasbuiltuponandnamedl'ileSaint–Louis—,lastlytheCity,andatitspoint,thelittleisletofthecowtender,whichwasafterwardsengulfedbeneaththeplatformofthePont–Neuf.
TheCitythenhadfivebridges:threeontheright,thePontNotre–Dame,andthePontauChange,ofstone,thePontauxMeuniers,ofwood;twoontheleft,thePetitPont,ofstone,thePontSaint–Michel,ofwood;allloadedwithhouses.
TheUniversityhadsixgates,builtbyPhilipAugustus;therewere,beginningwithlaTournelle,thePorteSaint–Victor,thePorteBordelle,thePortePapale,thePorteSaint–Jacques,thePorteSaint–Michel,thePorteSaint–Germain.
TheTownhadsixgates,builtbyCharlesV.;beginningwiththeTourdeBillytheywere:thePorteSaint–Antoine,thePorteduTemple,thePorteSaint–Martin,thePorteSaint–Denis,thePorteMontmartre,thePorteSaint–Honoré.
Alarge,deepmoat,withabriskcurrentduringthehighwaterofwinter,bathedthebaseofthewallroundParis;theSeinefurnishedthewater.
Atnight,thegateswereshut,theriverwasbarredatbothendsofthecitywithhugeironchains,andParisslepttranquilly.
Fromabird's–eyeview,thesethreeburgs,theCity,theTown,andtheUniversity,eachpresentedtotheeyeaninextricableskeinofeccentricallytangledstreets.
Oneimmediatelyperceivedthreelongparallelstreets,unbroken,undisturbed,traversing,almostinastraightline,allthreecities,fromoneendtotheother;fromNorthtoSouth,perpendicularly,totheSeine,whichboundthemtogether,mingledthem,infusedthemineachother,pouredandtransfusedthepeopleincessantly,fromonetotheother,andmadeoneoutofthethree.
ThefirstofthesestreetsranfromthePorteSaint–Martin:itwascalledtheRueSaint–JacquesintheUniversity,RuedelaJuiverieintheCity,RueSaint–MartinintheTown;itcrossedthewatertwice,underthenameofthePetitPontandthePontNotre–Dame.
Thesecond,whichwascalledtheRuedelaHarpeontheleftbank,RuedelaBarilleriéintheisland,RueSaint–Denisontherightbank,PontSaint–MichelononearmoftheSeine,PontauChangeontheother,ranfromthePorteSaint–MichelintheUniversity,tothePorteSaint–DenisintheTown.
However,underallthesenames,therewerebuttwostreets,parentstreets,generatingstreets,—thetwoarteriesofParis.
Independentlyofthesetwoprincipalstreets,piercingParisdiametricallyinitswholebreadth,fromsidetoside,commontotheentirecapital,theCityandtheUniversityhadalsoeachitsowngreatspecialstreet,whichranlengthwisebythem,paralleltotheSeine,cutting,asitpassed,atrightangles,thetwoarterialthoroughfares.
Thus,intheTown,onedescendedinastraightlinefromthePorteSaint–AntoinetothePorteSaint–Honoré;intheUniversityfromthePorteSaint–VictortothePorteSaint–Germain.
Thesetwogreatthoroughfaresintersectedbythetwofirst,formedthecanvasuponwhichreposed,knottedandcrowdedtogetheroneveryhand,thelabyrinthinenetworkofthestreetsofParis.
Intheincomprehensibleplanofthesestreets,onedistinguishedlikewise,onlookingattentively,twoclustersofgreatstreets,likemagnifiedsheavesofgrain,oneintheUniversity,theotherintheTown,whichspreadoutgraduallyfromthebridgestothegates.
Now,whataspectdidthiswholepresent,when,asviewedfromthesummitofthetowersofNotre–Dame,in1482?Thatweshalltrytodescribe.
Forthespectatorwhoarrived,panting,uponthatpinnacle,itwasfirstadazzlingconfusingviewofroofs,chimneys,streets,bridges,places,spires,belltowers.
Everythingstruckyoureyeatonce:thecarvedgable,thepointedroof,theturretssuspendedattheanglesofthewalls;thestonepyramidsoftheeleventhcentury,theslateobelisksofthefifteenth;theround,baretowerofthedonjonkeep;thesquareandfrettedtowerofthechurch;thegreatandthelittle,themassiveandtheaerial.
Theeyewas,foralongtime,whollylostinthislabyrinth,wheretherewasnothingwhichdidnotpossessitsoriginality,itsreason,itsgenius,itsbeauty,—nothingwhichdidnotproceedfromart;beginningwiththesmallesthouse,withitspaintedandcarvedfront,withexternalbeams,ellipticaldoor,withprojectingstories,totheroyalLouvre,whichthenhadacolonnadeoftowers.
Butthesearetheprincipalmasseswhichwerethentobedistinguishedwhentheeyebegantoaccustomitselftothistumultofedifices.
Inthefirstplace,theCity.—"TheislandoftheCity,"asSauvalsays,who,inspiteofhisconfusedmedley,sometimeshassuchhappyturnsofexpression,—"theislandofthecityismadelikeagreatship,stuckinthemudandrunagroundinthecurrent,nearthecentreoftheSeine."
Wehavejustexplainedthat,inthefifteenthcentury,thisshipwasanchoredtothetwobanksoftheriverbyfivebridges.
Thisformofashiphadalsostrucktheheraldicscribes;foritisfromthat,andnotfromthesiegebytheNormans,thattheshipwhichblazonstheoldshieldofParis,comes,accordingtoFavynandPasquier.
ThewholehistoryofthesecondhalfoftheMiddleAgesiswritteninarmorialbearings,—thefirsthalfisinthesymbolismoftheRomanchurches.
Turningtowardstheprow,onehadbeforeoneaninnumerableflockofancientroofs,overwhicharchedbroadlythelead–coveredapseoftheSainte–Chapelle,likeanelephant'shaunchesloadedwithitstower.
Onlyhere,thistowerwasthemostaudacious,themostopen,themostornamentedspireofcabinet–maker'sworkthateverlettheskypeepthroughitsconeoflace.
InfrontofNotre–Dame,andverynearathand,threestreetsopenedintothecathedralsquare,—afinesquare,linedwithancienthouses.
OverthesouthsideofthisplacebentthewrinkledandsullenfaadeoftheHôtelDieu,anditsroof,whichseemedcoveredwithwartsandpustules.
Then,ontherightandtheleft,toeastandwest,withinthatwalloftheCity,whichwasyetsocontracted,rosethebelltowersofitsoneandtwentychurches,ofeverydate,ofeveryform,ofeverysize,fromthelowandwormeatenbelfryofSaint–DenisduPas(~CarcerGlaueini~)totheslenderneedlesofSaint–PierreauxBoeufsandSaint–Landry.
BehindNotre–Dame,thecloisteranditsGothicgalleriesspreadouttowardsthenorth;onthesouth,thehalf–Romanpalaceofthebishop;ontheeast,thedesertpointoftheTerrain.
Inthisthrongofhousestheeyealsodistinguished,bytheloftyopen–workmitresofstonewhichthencrownedtheroofitself,eventhemostelevatedwindowsofthepalace,theHôtelgivenbythecity,underCharlesVI.,toJuvénaldesUrsins;alittlefartheron,thepitch–coveredshedsofthePalusMarket;instillanotherquarterthenewapseofSaint–GermainleVieux,lengthenedin1458,withabitoftheRueauxFebves;andthen,inplaces,asquarecrowdedwithpeople;apillory,erectedatthecornerofastreet;afinefragmentofthepavementofPhilipAugustus,amagnificentflagging,groovedforthehorses'feet,inthemiddleoftheroad,andsobadlyreplacedinthesixteenthcenturybythemiserablecobblestones,calledthe"pavementoftheLeague;"adesertedbackcourtyard,withoneofthosediaphanousstaircaseturrets,suchaswereerectedinthefifteenthcentury,oneofwhichisstilltobeseenintheRuedesBourdonnais.
Lastly,attherightoftheSainte–Chapelle,towardsthewest,thePalaisdeJusticeresteditsgroupoftowersattheedgeofthewater.
Asforthewater,fromthesummitofthetowersofNotre–Dameonehardlysawit,oneithersideoftheCity;theSeinewashiddenbybridges,thebridgesbyhouses.
Andwhentheglancepassedthesebridges,whoseroofswerevisiblygreen,renderedmouldybeforetheirtimebythevaporsfromthewater,ifitwasdirectedtotheleft,towardstheUniversity,thefirstedificewhichstruckitwasalarge,lowsheafoftowers,thePetit–Chátelet,whoseyawninggatedevouredtheendofthePetit–Pont.
Then,ifyourviewranalongthebank,fromeasttowest,fromtheTournelletotheTourdeNesle,therewasalongcordonofhouses,withcarvedbeams,stained–glasswindows,eachstoryprojectingoverthatbeneathit,aninterminablezigzagofbourgeoisgables,frequentlyinterruptedbythemouthofastreet,andfromtimetotimealsobythefrontorangleofahugestonemansion,plantedatitsease,withcourtsandgardens,wingsanddetachedbuildings,amidthispopulaceofcrowdedandnarrowhouses,likeagrandgentlemanamongathrongofrustics.
Therewerefiveorsixofthesemansionsonthequay,fromthehouseofLorraine,whichsharedwiththeBernardinsthegrandenclosureadjoiningtheTournelle,totheHôteldeNesle,whoseprincipaltowerendedParis,andwhosepointedroofswereinaposition,duringthreemonthsoftheyear,toencroach,withtheirblacktriangles,uponthescarletdiskofthesettingsun.
Studentsfurnishedmoreofacrowdandmorenoisetherethanartisans,andtherewasnot,properlyspeaking,anyquay,exceptfromthePontSaint–MicheltotheTourdeNesle.
TherestofthebankoftheSeinewasnowanakedstrand,thesameasbeyondtheBernardins;again,athrongofhouses,standingwiththeirfeetinthewater,asbetweenthetwobridges.
Therewasagreatuproaroflaundresses;theyscreamed,andtalked,andsangfrommorningtillnightalongthebeach,andbeatagreatdealoflinenthere,justasinourday.
Thethousandroofs,dense,angular,clingingtoeachother,composed,nearlyall,ofthesamegeometricalelement,offered,whenviewedfromabove,theaspectofacrystallizationofthesamesubstance.
Theamusinglyvariedcrestsofthesebeautifuledificesweretheproductofthesameartasthesimpleroofswhichtheyovershot,andwere,actually,onlyamultiplicationofthesquareorthecubeofthesamegeometricalfigure.
Hencetheycomplicatedthewholeeffect,withoutdisturbingit;completed,withoutoverloadingit.Geometryisharmony.
ThehouseofNevers,thehouseofRome,thehouseofReims,whichhavedisappeared;theHôteldeCluny,whichstillexists,fortheconsolationoftheartist,andwhosetowerwassostupidlydeprivedofitscrownafewyearsago.
Therewereagreatmanyabbeys,ofabeautymoredevout,ofagrandeurmoresolemnthanthemansions,butnotlessbeautiful,notlessgrand.
ThosewhichfirstcaughttheeyeweretheBernardins,withtheirthreebelltowers;Sainte–Genevive,whosesquaretower,whichstillexists,makesusregrettherest;theSorbonne,halfcollege,halfmonastery,ofwhichsoadmirableanavesurvives;thefinequadrilateralcloisteroftheMathurins;itsneighbor,thecloisterofSaint–Benoit,withinwhosewallstheyhavehadtimetocobbleupatheatre,betweentheseventhandeightheditionsofthisbook;theCordeliers,withtheirthreeenormousadjacentgables;theAugustins,whosegracefulspireformed,aftertheTourdeNesle,theseconddenticulationonthissideofParis,startingfromthewest.
Thecolleges,whichare,infact,theintermediateringbetweenthecloisterandtheworld,holdthemiddlepositioninthemonumentalseriesbetweentheHôtelsandtheabbeys,withaseverityfullofelegance,sculpturelessgiddythanthepalaces,anarchitecturelessseverethantheconvents.
Unfortunately,hardlyanythingremainsofthesemonuments,whereGothicartcombinedwithsojustabalance,richnessandeconomy.
Thechurches(andtheywerenumerousandsplendidintheUniversity,andtheyweregradedtherealsoinalltheagesofarchitecture,fromtheroundarchesofSaint–JuliantothepointedarchesofSaint–Séverin),thechurchesdominatedthewhole;and,likeoneharmonymoreinthismassofharmonies,theypiercedinquicksuccessionthemultipleopenworkofthegableswithslashedspires,withopen–workbelltowers,withslenderpinnacles,whoselinewasalsoonlyamagnificentexaggerationoftheacuteangleoftheroofs.
ThegroundoftheUniversitywashilly;MountSainte–Geneviveformedanenormousmoundtothesouth;anditwasasighttoseefromthesummitofNotre–Damehowthatthrongofnarrowandtortuousstreets(to–daytheLatinQuarter),thosebunchesofhouseswhich,spreadoutineverydirectionfromthetopofthiseminence,precipitatedthemselvesindisorder,andalmostperpendicularlydownitsflanks,nearlytothewater'sedge,havingtheair,someoffalling,othersofclamberingupagain,andallofholdingtooneanother.
Acontinualfluxofathousandblackpointswhichpassedeachotheronthepavementsmadeeverythingmovebeforetheeyes;itwasthepopulaceseenthusfromaloftandafar.
Lastly,intheintervalsoftheseroofs,ofthesespires,oftheseaccidentsofnumberlessedifices,whichbentandwrithed,andjaggedinsoeccentricamannertheextremelineoftheUniversity,onecaughtaglimpse,hereandthere,ofagreatexpanseofmoss–grownwall,athick,roundtower,acrenellatedcitygate,shadowingforththefortress;itwasthewallofPhilipAugustus.
Beyond,thefieldsgleamedgreen;beyond,fledtheroads,alongwhichwerescatteredafewmoresuburbanhouses,whichbecamemoreinfrequentastheybecamemoredistant.
Someofthesefaubourgswereimportant:therewere,first,startingfromlaTournelle,theBourgSaint–Victor,withitsonearchbridgeovertheBivre,itsabbeywhereonecouldreadtheepitaphofLouisleGros,~epitaphiumLudoviciGrossi~,anditschurchwithanoctagonalspire,flankedwithfourlittlebelltowersoftheeleventhcentury(asimilaronecanbeseenatEtampes;itisnotyetdestroyed);next,theBourgSaint–Marceau,whichalreadyhadthreechurchesandoneconvent;then,leavingthemilloftheGobelinsanditsfourwhitewallsontheleft,therewastheFaubourgSaint–Jacqueswiththebeautifulcarvedcrossinitssquare;thechurchofSaint–JacquesduHaut–Pas,whichwasthenGothic,pointed,charming;Saint–Magloire,afinenaveofthefourteenthcentury,whichNapoleonturnedintoahayloft;Notre–DamedesChamps,wheretherewereByzantinemosaics;lastly,afterhavingleftbehind,fullinthecountry,theMonasterydesChartreux,arichedificecontemporarywiththePalaisdeJustice,withitslittlegardendividedintocompartments,andthehauntedruinsofVauvert,theeyefell,tothewest,uponthethreeRomanspiresofSaint–GermaindesPrés.
TheBourgSaint–Germain,alreadyalargecommunity,formedfifteenortwentystreetsintherear;thepointedbelltowerofSaint–Sulpicemarkedonecornerofthetown.
ClosebesideitonedescriedthequadrilateralenclosureofthefairofSaint–Germain,wherethemarketissituatedto–day;thentheabbot'spillory,aprettylittleroundtower,wellcappedwithaleadencone;thebrickyardwasfurtheron,andtheRueduFour,whichledtothecommonbakehouse,andthemillonitshillock,andthelazarhouse,atinyhouse,isolatedandhalfseen.
Itiscertainthatthismonastery,whichhadagrandair,bothasachurchandasaseignory;thatabbatialpalace,wherethebishopsofPariscountedthemselveshappyiftheycouldpassthenight;thatrefectory,uponwhichthearchitecthadbestowedtheair,thebeauty,andtherosewindowofacathedral;thatelegantchapeloftheVirgin;thatmonumentaldormitory;thosevastgardens;thatportcullis;thatdrawbridge;thatenvelopeofbattlementswhichnotchedtotheeyetheverdureofthesurroundingmeadows;thosecourtyards,wheregleamedmenatarms,intermingledwithgoldencopes;—thewholegroupedandclusteredaboutthreeloftyspires,withroundarches,wellplanteduponaGothicapse,madeamagnificentfigureagainstthehorizon.
When,atlength,afterhavingcontemplatedtheUniversityforalongtime,youturnedtowardstherightbank,towardstheTown,thecharacterofthespectaclewasabruptlyaltered.
First,totheeastward,inthatpartofthetownwhichstilltakesitsnamefromthemarshwhereCamulognesentangledCaesar,wasapileofpalaces.
FouralmostcontiguousHôtels,Jouy,Sens,Barbeau,thehouseoftheQueen,mirroredtheirslatepeaks,brokenwithslenderturrets,intheSeine.
ThesefouredificesfilledthespacefromtheRuedesNonaindires,totheabbeyoftheCelestins,whosespiregracefullyrelievedtheirlineofgablesandbattlements.
Afewmiserable,greenishhovels,hangingoverthewaterinfrontofthesesumptuousHôtels,didnotpreventonefromseeingthefineanglesoftheirfaades,theirlarge,squarewindowswithstonemullions,theirpointedporchesoverloadedwithstatues,thevividoutlinesoftheirwalls,alwaysclearcut,andallthosecharmingaccidentsofarchitecture,whichcauseGothicarttohavetheairofbeginningitscombinationsafreshwitheverymonument.
Behindthesepalaces,extendedinalldirections,nowbroken,fencedin,battlementedlikeacitadel,nowveiledbygreattreeslikeaCarthusianconvent,theimmenseandmultiformenclosureofthatmiraculousHôteldeSaint–Pol,wheretheKingofFrancepossessedthemeansoflodgingsuperblytwoandtwentyprincesoftherankofthedauphinandtheDukeofBurgundy,withtheirdomesticsandtheirsuites,withoutcountingthegreatlords,andtheemperorwhenhecametoviewParis,andthelions,whohadtheirseparateHôtelattheroyalHôtel.
Letussayherethataprince'sapartmentwasthencomposedofneverlessthanelevenlargerooms,fromthechamberofstatetotheoratory,nottomentionthegalleries,baths,vapor–baths,andother"superfluousplaces,"withwhicheachapartmentwasprovided;nottomentiontheprivategardensforeachoftheking'sguests;nottomentionthekitchens,thecellars,thedomesticoffices,thegeneralrefectoriesofthehouse,thepoultry–yards,wherethereweretwenty–twogenerallaboratories,fromthebakehousestothewine–cellars;gamesofathousandsorts,malls,tennis,andridingatthering;aviaries,fishponds,menageries,stables,barns,libraries,arsenalsandfoundries.
Fromthetowerwhereweareplaced,theHôtelSaint–Pol,almosthalfhiddenbythefourgreathousesofwhichwehavejustspoken,wasstillveryconsiderableandverymarvelloustosee.
Onecouldtheredistinguish,verywell,thoughcleverlyunitedwiththeprincipalbuildingbylonggalleries,deckedwithpaintedglassandslendercolumns,thethreeHôtelswhichCharlesV.hadamalgamatedwithhispalace:theHôtelduPetit–Muce,withtheairybalustrade,whichformedagracefulbordertoitsroof;theHôteloftheAbbedeSaint–Maur,havingthevanityofastronghold,agreattower,machicolations,loopholes,irongratings,andoverthelargeSaxondoor,thearmorialbearingsoftheabbé,betweenthetwomortisesofthedrawbridge;theHôteloftheComted'Etampes,whosedonjonkeep,ruinedatitssummit,wasroundedandnotchedlikeacock'scomb;hereandthere,threeorfourancientoaks,formingatufttogetherlikeenormouscauliflowers;gambolsofswans,intheclearwaterofthefishponds,allinfoldsoflightandshade;manycourtyardsofwhichonebeheldpicturesquebits;theHôteloftheLions,withitslow,pointedarchesonshort,Saxonpillars,itsirongratingsanditsperpetualroar;shootingupabovethewhole,thescale–ornamentedspireoftheAve–Maria;ontheleft,thehouseoftheProvostofParis,flankedbyfoursmalltowers,delicatelygrooved,inthemiddle;attheextremity,theHôtelSaint–Pol,properlyspeaking,withitsmultipliedfaades,itssuccessiveenrichmentsfromthetimeofCharlesV.,thehybridexcrescences,withwhichthefancyofthearchitectshadloadeditduringthelasttwocenturies,withalltheapsesofitschapels,allthegablesofitsgalleries,athousandweathercocksforthefourwinds,anditstwoloftycontiguoustowers,whoseconicalroof,surroundedbybattlementsatitsbase,lookedlikethosepointedcapswhichhavetheiredgesturnedup.
Continuingtomountthestoriesofthisamphitheatreofpalacesspreadoutafarupontheground,aftercrossingadeepravinehollowedoutoftheroofsintheTown,whichmarkedthepassageoftheRueSaint–Antoine,theeyereachedthehouseofAngoulme,avastconstructionofmanyepochs,wheretherewereperfectlynewandverywhiteparts,whichmeltednobetterintothewholethanaredpatchonabluedoublet.
Nevertheless,theremarkablypointedandloftyroofofthemodernpalace,bristlingwithcarvedeaves,coveredwithsheetsoflead,wherecoiledathousandfantasticarabesquesofsparklingincrustationsofgildedbronze,thatroof,socuriouslydamascened,dartedupwardsgracefullyfromthemidstofthebrownruinsoftheancientedifice;whosehugeandancienttowers,roundedbyagelikecasks,sinkingtogetherwitholdage,andrendingthemselvesfromtoptobottom,resembledgreatbelliesunbuttoned.
Notaviewintheworld,eitheratChambordorattheAlhambra,ismoremagic,moreaerial,moreenchanting,thanthatthicketofspires,tinybelltowers,chimneys,weather–vanes,windingstaircases,lanternsthroughwhichthedaylightmakesitsway,whichseemcutoutatablow,pavilions,spindle–shapedturrets,or,astheywerethencalled,"tournelles,"alldifferinginform,inheight,andattitude.
TotherightoftheTournelles,thattrussofenormoustowers,blackasink,runningintoeachotherandtied,asitwere,byacircularmoat;thatdonjonkeep,muchmorepiercedwithloopholesthanwithwindows;thatdrawbridge,alwaysraised;thatportcullis,alwayslowered,—istheBastille.
Thosesortsofblackbeakswhichprojectfrombetweenthebattlements,andwhichyoutakefromadistancetobecavespouts,arecannons.
BeyondtheTournelles,asfarasthewallofCharlesV.,spreadout,withrichcompartmentsofverdureandofflowers,avelvetcarpetofcultivatedlandandroyalparks,inthemidstofwhichonerecognized,byitslabyrinthoftreesandalleys,thefamousDaedalusgardenwhichLouisXI.hadgiventoCoictier.
Aswehavejustsaid,thequarterofthepalace,ofwhichwehavejustendeavoredtogivethereadersomeideabyindicatingonlythechiefpoints,filledtheanglewhichCharlesV.'swallmadewiththeSeineontheeast.
Itwasthere,infact,thatthethreebridgesdisgorgedupontherightbank,andbridgesleadtothebuildingofhousesratherthanpalaces.
Firstthestreets,crossedandentangled,formingahundredamusingfiguresintheblock;aroundthemarket–place,itwaslikeastarwithathousandrays.
TheRuesSaint–DenisandSaint–Martin,withtheirinnumerableramifications,roseoneaftertheother,liketreesintertwiningtheirbranches;andthenthetortuouslines,theRuesdelaPlâtrerie,delaVerrerie,delaTixeranderie,etc.,meanderedoverall.
AttheheadofthePontauxChangeurs,behindwhichonebeheldtheSeinefoamingbeneaththewheelsofthePontauxMeuniers,therewastheChalelet,nolongeraRomantower,asunderJuliantheApostate,butafeudaltowerofthethirteenthcentury,andofastonesohardthatthepickaxecouldnotbreakawaysomuchasthethicknessofthefistinaspaceofthreehours;therewastherichsquarebelltowerofSaint–JacquesdelaBoucherie,withitsanglesallfrothingwithcarvings,alreadyadmirable,althoughitwasnotfinishedinthefifteenthcentury.
(Itlacked,inparticular,thefourmonsters,which,stillperchedto–dayonthecornersofitsroof,havetheairofsomanysphinxeswhoarepropoundingtonewParistheriddleoftheancientParis.
TherewastheMaison–aux–Piliers,thePillarHouse,openinguponthatPlacedeGrèveofwhichwehavegiventhereadersomeidea;therewasSaint–Gervais,whichafront"ingoodtaste"hassincespoiled;Saint–Méry,whoseancientpointedarcheswerestillalmostroundarches;Saint–Jean,whosemagnificentspirewasproverbial;thereweretwentyothermonuments,whichdidnotdisdaintoburytheirwondersinthatchaosofblack,deep,narrowstreets.
Addthecrossesofcarvedstone,morelavishlyscatteredthroughthesquaresthaneventhegibbets;thecemeteryoftheInnocents,whosearchitecturalwallcouldbeseeninthedistanceabovetheroofs;thepilloryoftheMarkets,whosetopwasvisiblebetweentwochimneysoftheRuedelaCossonnerie;theladderoftheCroix–du–Trahoir,initssquarealwaysblackwithpeople;thecircularbuildingsofthewheatmart;thefragmentsofPhilipAugustus'sancientwall,whichcouldbemadeouthereandthere,drownedamongthehouses,itstowersgnawedbyivy,itsgatesinruins,withcrumblinganddeformedstretchesofwall;thequaywithitsthousandshops,anditsbloodyknacker'syards;theSeineencumberedwithboats,fromthePortauFointoPort–l'Evque,andyouwillhaveaconfusedpictureofwhatthecentraltrapeziumoftheTownwaslikein1482.
Withthesetwoquarters,oneofHôtels,theotherofhouses,thethirdfeatureofaspectpresentedbythecitywasalongzoneofabbeys,whichbordereditinnearlythewholeofitscircumference,fromtherisingtothesettingsun,and,behindthecircleoffortificationswhichhemmedinParis,formedasecondinteriorenclosureofconventsandchapels.
Thus,immediatelyadjoiningtheparkdesTournelles,betweentheRueSaint–AntoineandtheVielleRueduTemple,therestoodSainte–Catherine,withitsimmensecultivatedlands,whichwereterminatedonlybythewallofParis.
BetweentheoldandthenewRueduTemple,therewastheTemple,asinistergroupoftowers,lofty,erect,andisolatedinthemiddleofavast,battlementedenclosure.
BetweentheRueNeuve–du–TempleandtheRueSaint–Martin,therewastheAbbeyofSaint–Martin,inthemidstofitsgardens,asuperbfortifiedchurch,whosegirdleoftowers,whosediademofbelltowers,yieldedinforceandsplendoronlytoSaint–GermaindesPrés.
Finally,thefourthcompartment,whichstretcheditselfoutintheagglomerationoftheroofsontherightbank,andwhichoccupiedthewesternangleoftheenclosure,andthebanksoftheriverdownstream,wasafreshclusterofpalacesandHôtelspressedcloseaboutthebaseoftheLouvre.
TheoldLouvreofPhilipAugustus,thatimmenseedificewhosegreattowerralliedaboutitthreeandtwentychieftowers,nottoreckonthelessertowers,seemedfromadistancetobeenshrinedintheGothicroofsoftheHôteld'Alenon,andthePetit–Bourbon.
Thishydraoftowers,giantguardianofParis,withitsfourandtwentyheads,alwayserect,withitsmonstroushaunches,loadedorscaledwithslates,andallstreamingwithmetallicreflections,terminatedwithwonderfuleffecttheconfigurationoftheTowntowardsthewest.
Thusanimmenseblock,whichtheRomanscalled~iusula~,orisland,ofbourgeoishouses,flankedontherightandtheleftbytwoblocksofpalaces,crowned,theonebytheLouvre,theotherbytheTournelles,borderedonthenorthbyalonggirdleofabbeysandcultivatedenclosures,allamalgamatedandmeltedtogetherinoneview;uponthesethousandsofedifices,whosetiledandslatedroofsoutlineduponeachothersomanyfantasticchains,thebelltowers,tattooed,fluted,andornamentedwithtwistedbands,ofthefourandfortychurchesontherightbank;myriadsofcrossstreets;forboundaryononeside,anenclosureofloftywallswithsquaretowers(thatoftheUniversityhadroundtowers);ontheother,theSeine,cutbybridges,andbearingonitsbosomamultitudeofboats;beholdtheTownofParisinthefifteenthcentury.
Beyondthewalls,severalsuburbanvillagespressedcloseaboutthegates,butlessnumerousandmorescatteredthanthoseoftheUniversity.
BehindtheBastillethereweretwentyhovelsclusteredroundthecurioussculpturesoftheCroix–FaubinandtheflyingbuttressesoftheAbbeyofSaint–AntoinedesChamps;thenPopincourt,lostamidwheatfields;thenlaCourtille,amerryvillageofwine–shops;thehamletofSaint–Laurentwithitschurchwhosebelltower,fromafar,seemedtoadditselftothepointedtowersofthePorteSaint–Martin;theFaubourgSaint–Denis,withthevastenclosureofSaint–Ladre;beyondtheMontmartreGate,theGrange–Batelire,encircledwithwhitewalls;behindit,withitschalkyslopes,Montmartre,whichhadthenalmostasmanychurchesaswindmills,andwhichhaskeptonlythewindmills,forsocietynolongerdemandsanythingbutbreadforthebody.
Lastly,beyondtheLouvre,theFaubourgSaint–Honoré,alreadyconsiderableatthattime,couldbeseenstretchingawayintothefields,andPetit–Bretagnegleaminggreen,andtheMarchéauxPourceauxspreadingabroad,inwhosecentreswelledthehorribleapparatususedforboilingcounterfeiters.
BetweenlaCourtilleandSaint–Laurent,youreyehadalreadynoticed,onthesummitofaneminencecrouchingamiddesertplains,asortofedificewhichresembledfromadistancearuinedcolonnade,mounteduponabasementwithitsfoundationlaidbare.
Now,iftheenumerationofsomanyedifices,summaryaswehaveendeavoredtomakeit,hasnotshatteredinthereader'smindthegeneralimageofoldParis,aswehaveconstructedit,wewillrecapitulateitinafewwords.
Inthecentre,theislandoftheCity,resemblingastoformanenormoustortoise,andthrowingoutitsbridgeswithtilesforscales;likelegsfrombeneathitsgrayshellofroofs.
Ontheleft,themonolithictrapezium,firm,dense,bristling,oftheUniversity;ontheright,thevastsemicircleoftheTown,muchmoreintermixedwithgardensandmonuments.
Ontheleft,Issy,Vanvres,Vaugirarde,Montrouge,Gentilly,withitsroundtoweranditssquaretower,etc.;ontheright,twentyothers,fromConflanstoVille–l'Evque.
Finally,farawaytotheeast,Vincennes,anditssevenquadrangulartowerstothesouth,Bictreanditspointedturrets;tothenorth,Saint–Denisanditsspire;tothewest,SaintCloudanditsdonjonkeep.
Nevertheless,Voltairesaidofthiscity,that"beforeLouisXIV.,itpossessedbutfourfinemonuments":thedomeoftheSorbonne,theVal–de–Grâce,themodernLouvre,andIknownotwhatthefourthwas—theLuxembourg,perhaps.
Fortunately,Voltairewastheauthorof"Candide"inspiteofthis,andinspiteofthis,heis,amongallthemenwhohavefollowedeachotherinthelongseriesofhumanity,theonewhohasbestpossessedthediabolicallaugh.
DidnotMoliereimaginethathewasdoingRaphaelandMichael–Angeloaverygreathonor,bycallingthem"thoseMignardsoftheirage?"
Itwasnotthenmerelyahandsomecity;itwasahomogeneouscity,anarchitecturalandhistoricalproductoftheMiddleAges,achronicleinstone.
Itwasacityformedoftwolayersonly;theRomanesquelayerandtheGothiclayer;fortheRomanlayerhaddisappearedlongbefore,withtheexceptionoftheHotBathsofJulian,whereitstillpiercedthroughthethickcrustoftheMiddleAges.
Fiftyyearslater,whentheRenaissancebegantominglewiththisunitywhichwassosevereandyetsovaried,thedazzlingluxuryofitsfantasiesandsystems,itsdebasementsofRomanroundarches,Greekcolumns,andGothicbases,itssculpturewhichwassotenderandsoideal,itspeculiartasteforarabesquesandacanthusleaves,itsarchitecturalpaganism,contemporarywithLuther,Paris,wasperhaps,stillmorebeautiful,althoughlessharmonioustotheeye,andtothethought.
Butthissplendidmomentlastedonlyforashorttime;theRenaissancewasnotimpartial;itdidnotcontentitselfwithbuilding,itwishedtodestroy;itistruethatitrequiredtheroom.
Afterthat,thegreatcitybecamemoredisfiguredeveryday.GothicParis,beneathwhichRomanPariswaseffaced,waseffacedinitsturn;butcananyonesaywhatParishasreplacedit?
ThereistheParisofCatherinedeMedicisattheTuileries;*—theParisofHenriII.,attheHôteldeVille,twoedificesstillinfinetaste;—theParisofHenriIV.,atthePlaceRoyale:faadesofbrickwithstonecorners,andslatedroofs,tri–coloredhouses;—theParisofLouisXIII.,attheVal–de–Grace:acrushedandsquatarchitecture,withvaultslikebasket–handles,andsomethingindescribablypot–belliedinthecolumn,andthicksetinthedome;—theParisofLouisXIV.,intheInvalides:grand,rich,gilded,cold;—theParisofLouisXV.,inSaint–Sulpice:volutes,knotsofribbon,clouds,vermicelliandchiccoryleaves,allinstone;—theParisofLouisXVI.,inthePantheon:SaintPeterofRome,badlycopied(theedificeisawkwardlyheapedtogether,whichhasnotamendeditslines);—theParisoftheRepublic,intheSchoolofMedicine:apoorGreekandRomantaste,whichresemblestheColiseumortheParthenonastheconstitutionoftheyearIII.,resemblesthelawsofMinos,—itiscalledinarchitecture,"theMessidor"**taste;—theParisofNapoleoninthePlaceVendome:thisoneissublime,acolumnofbronzemadeofcannons;—theParisoftheRestoration,attheBourse:averywhitecolonnadesupportingaverysmoothfrieze;thewholeissquareandcosttwentymillions.
*Wehaveseenwithsorrowmingledwithindignation,thatitistheintentiontoincrease,torecast,tomakeover,thatistosay,todestroythisadmirablepalace.
Moreover,thisdemolitionoftheTuileriesnow,wouldbenotonlyabrutaldeedofviolence,whichwouldmakeadrunkenvandalblush—itwouldbeanactoftreason.
TheTuileriesisnotsimplyamasterpieceoftheartofthesixteenthcentury,itisapageofthehistoryofthenineteenth.
Ononeofitstwofaades,therearethecannon–ballsofthe10thofAugust;ontheother,theballsofthe29thofJuly.Itissacred.Paris,April1,1831.(Notetothefifthedition.)
Toeachofthesecharacteristicmonumentsthereisattachedbyasimilarityoftaste,fashion,andattitude,acertainnumberofhousesscatteredaboutindifferentquartersandwhichtheeyesoftheconnoisseureasilydistinguishesandfurnisheswithadate.
ThetowersofSaint–Sulpicearetwohugeclarinets,andtheformisasgoodasanyother;thetelegraph,contortedandgrimacing,formsanadmirableaccidentupontheirroofs.
AsforthePalaceoftheBourse,whichisGreekastoitscolonnade,Romanintheroundarchesofitsdoorsandwindows,oftheRenaissancebyvirtueofitsflattenedvault,itisindubitablyaverycorrectandverypuremonument;theproofisthatitiscrownedwithanattic,suchaswasneverseeninAthens,abeautiful,straightline,gracefullybrokenhereandtherebystovepipes.
Letusaddthatifitisaccordingtorulethatthearchitectureofabuildingshouldbeadaptedtoitspurposeinsuchamannerthatthispurposeshallbeimmediatelyapparentfromthemereaspectofthebuilding,onecannotbetoomuchamazedatastructurewhichmightbeindifferently—thepalaceofaking,achamberofcommunes,atown–hall,acollege,ariding–school,anacademy,awarehouse,acourt–house,amuseum,abarracks,asepulchre,atemple,oratheatre.
IthasaroofalmostasflatasroofsintheEast,whichinvolvessweepingtheroofinwinter,whenitsnows;andofcourseroofsaremadetobeswept.
Asforitspurpose,ofwhichwejustspoke,itfulfilsittoamarvel;itisabourseinFranceasitwouldhavebeenatempleinGreece.
Itistruethatthearchitectwasatagooddealoftroubletoconcealtheclockface,whichwouldhavedestroyedthepurityofthefinelinesofthefaade;but,ontheotherhand,wehavethatcolonnadewhichcirclesroundtheedificeandunderwhich,ondaysofhighreligiousceremony,thetheoriesofthestock–brokersandthecourtiersofcommercecanbedevelopedsomajestically.
Theseareverysuperbstructures.Letusaddaquantityoffine,amusing,andvariedstreets,liketheRuedeRivoli,andIdonotdespairofParispresentingtotheeye,whenviewedfromaballoon,thatrichnessofline,thatopulenceofdetail,thatdiversityofaspect,thatgrandiosesomethinginthesimple,andunexpectedinthebeautiful,whichcharacterizesachecker–board.
However,admirableastheParisofto–daymayseemtoyou,reconstructtheParisofthefifteenthcentury,callitupbeforeyouinthought;lookattheskyathwartthatsurprisingforestofspires,towers,andbelfries;spreadoutinthecentreofthecity,tearawayatthepointoftheislands,foldatthearchesofthebridges,theSeine,withitsbroadgreenandyellowexpanses,morevariablethantheskinofaserpent;projectclearlyagainstanazurehorizontheGothicprofileofthisancientParis.
Makeitscontourfloatinawinter'smistwhichclingstoitsnumerouschimneys;drownitinprofoundnightandwatchtheoddplayoflightsandshadowsinthatsombrelabyrinthofedifices;castuponitarayoflightwhichshallvaguelyoutlineitandcausetoemergefromthefogthegreatheadsofthetowers;ortakethatblacksilhouetteagain,enlivenwithshadowthethousandacuteanglesofthespiresandgables,andmakeitstartoutmoretoothedthanashark'sjawagainstacopper–coloredwesternsky,—andthencompare.
Andifyouwishtoreceiveoftheancientcityanimpressionwithwhichthemodernonecannolongerfurnishyou,climb—onthemorningofsomegrandfestival,beneaththerisingsunofEasterorofPentecost—climbuponsomeelevatedpoint,whenceyoucommandtheentirecapital;andbepresentatthewakeningofthechimes.
Firstcomescatteredstrokes,runningfromonechurchtoanother,aswhenmusiciansgivewarningthattheyareabouttobegin.Then,allatonce,behold!
—foritseemsattimes,asthoughtheearalsopossessedasightofitsown,—behold,risingfromeachbelltower,somethinglikeacolumnofsound,acloudofharmony.
First,thevibrationofeachbellmountsstraightupwards,pureand,sotospeak,isolatedfromtheothers,intothesplendidmorningsky;then,littlebylittle,astheyswelltheymelttogether,mingle,arelostineachother,andamalgamateinamagnificentconcert.
Itisnolongeranythingbutamassofsonorousvibrationsincessantlysentforthfromthenumerousbelfries;floats,undulates,bounds,whirlsoverthecity,andprolongsfarbeyondthehorizonthedeafeningcircleofitsoscillations.
Nevertheless,thisseaofharmonyisnotachaos;greatandprofoundasitis,ithasnotlostitstransparency;youbeholdthewindingsofeachgroupofnoteswhichescapesfromthebelfries.
Youcanfollowthedialogue,byturnsgraveandshrill,ofthetrebleandthebass;youcanseetheoctavesleapfromonetowertoanother;youwatchthemspringforth,winged,light,andwhistling,fromthesilverbell,tofall,brokenandlimpingfromthebellofwood;youadmireintheirmidsttherichgamutwhichincessantlyascendsandre–ascendsthesevenbellsofSaint–Eustache;youseelightandrapidnotesrunningacrossit,executingthreeorfourluminouszigzags,andvanishinglikeflashesoflightning.
YonderistheAbbeyofSaint–Martin,ashrill,crackedsinger;herethegruffandgloomyvoiceoftheBastille;attheotherend,thegreattoweroftheLouvre,withitsbass.
Theroyalchimeofthepalacescattersonallsides,andwithoutrelaxation,resplendenttrills,uponwhichfall,atregularintervals,theheavystrokesfromthebelfryofNotre–Dame,whichmakesthemsparkleliketheanvilunderthehammer.
Then,again,fromtimetotime,thismassofsublimenoisesopensandgivespassagetothebeatsoftheAveMaria,whichburstsforthandsparkleslikeanaigretteofstars.
Below,intheverydepthsoftheconcert,youconfusedlydistinguishtheinteriorchantingofthechurches,whichexhalesthroughthevibratingporesoftheirvaultedroofs.
Ordinarily,thenoisewhichescapesfromParisbydayisthecityspeaking;bynight,itisthecitybreathing;inthiscase,itisthecitysinging.
Lendanear,then,tothisconcertofbelltowers;spreadoverallthemurmurofhalfamillionmen,theeternalplaintoftheriver,theinfinitebreathingsofthewind,thegraveanddistantquartetteofthefourforestsarrangeduponthehills,onthehorizon,likeimmensestacksoforganpipes;extinguish,asinahalfshade,allthatistoohoarseandtooshrillaboutthecentralchime,andsaywhetheryouknowanythingintheworldmorerichandjoyful,moregolden,moredazzling,thanthistumultofbellsandchimes;—thanthisfurnaceofmusic,—thanthesetenthousandbrazenvoiceschantingsimultaneouslyintheflutesofstone,threehundredfeethigh,—thanthiscitywhichisnolongeranythingbutanorchestra,—thanthissymphonywhichproducesthenoiseofatempest.
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